|4/30/00 Joe's Valley, UT
has reportedly done the first ascent of a V13 at Joe's Vally in Utah. The
problem, Black Lung, had been a Steven Jeffrey project (so you know
it is way hard). For more information on this new problem, check out
Rock & Ice's
4/30/00 Cradle Rock, NJ
a New Jersey guidebook author, provided us with this access alert
for Cradle Rock. The Cradle Rock bouldering area in NJ is being fenced off
and climbers are being turned away by the landowners. The New Jersey Climbers
Coalition (NJCC) is working with the Access Fund and eventually other groups
(Sierra Club, Audubon Society, Princeton Outdoor Club) to move forward the
Preserve Cradle Rock Initiative which has the goal of preserving the area
through a combination of "open space" acquisition and environmental easements.
To become a member of NJCC, point your web browser to
Click the login link, register with Yahoo if you have not done so already
(which involves obtaining a Yahoo ID and password), then post a message telling
the group who you are, how long you have been climbing, and what climbing
areas you are interested in.
4/20/00 Carinthia, Austria
has sent a new V14 at Carinthia in his homeland of Austria. Klem has
also rated this problem, The Power of Goodbye, B1, similar to
the old Gill rating system. However, Klem is using the B rating system to
rate problems of the top difficulty level. Roughly, B1 is at Klem's
limit, but repeatable; B2 is at his limit, but only repeatable when conditions
are perfect; and B3 is at his limit and is a problem he does think he could
ever repeat. For more information and photos on this new problem and Klem's
thoughts on ratings, check out
Klem working on The Power of Goodbye. Photograph by Udo
|4/18/00 Phoenix, AZ
the non-local results from the recently completed Phoenix Bouldering Contest.
Click here for Tony Veltri's field
|4/16/00 Rumney, NH
sent his first 5.14a recently with his redpoint of Dr. No at Rumney.
Also, Luke Parady and Joe Kinder did the second and third ascents of Urban
Surfer, 5.13d. This route had been an old John Mallory project before
Dave Graham made the first ascent.
|4/16/00 Mechanic Falls, ME
recently completed a project at the Land of the Overhangs in Mechanic Falls,
Maine. Dave had been working on the problem, Fuga, since last September.
Although currently unrated, Greg Shyloski says the problem is at least V9
and probably V10.
4/10/00 Rumney, NH
Friday, Dave Graham blasted New England standards into the stratosphere with
the first ascent of The Fly. Dave has tentatively graded this 25 foot
power route 14+, indicating that it may 14c or possibly 14d. Dave said. "The
thing is RAD. It took me longer than anything, ever. I've been trying it
off and on for over two and a half years." Dave estimated that he had spent
five or six days on the route prior to even beginning to work on it this
spring. He figures he spent about eight days on it this year.
Dave went on to describe the route, "The sequence that
I used on the send was refined down from 16 moves (every move went differently
that I thought it would), to a 12 move sequence, with 6 difficult moves (each
harder than V10). These 6 moves cover the entire grey portion of the wall."
Making the route even harder was that it is not possible to chalk up for
the entire route. Most of the time Dave left his chalkbag on the ground.
The lack of chalk made the finishing sloper moves all the more difficult.
On the send, Dave said, "It was by the skin of my teeth. I mean, it just
barely went! I almost fell on every hard move after the the six hard moves,
which I stuck with two tips, then punched through the last moves."
Dave described the incredible amount of energy he put
into sending this route by saying, "This route was a process. I started
out not being able to link a single move into another. I couldn't do the
hardest moves and I felt miserable. Every day I got on it, I only found like
one piece of important beta and I would never make more than one move of
progress. It was the most frustrating climb I've ever dealt with, with moves
harder than any I have ever done, boulder problem or route."
This route is a true testament to what is possible in
the world of rock climbing. I remember looking at this piece of rock five
years ago, fondling the starting holds, and thinking that there was no way
anyone would ever be able to climb this route. Dave's tenacity and talent
are clearly evident in this amazing route.
-- Joe McLoughlin
|4/7/00 Rumney, NH
Joe Kinder and Luke Parady repeated
Ward Smith's Parallel Universe, 5.14a, this past weekend. Joe said
this route is his hardest to date, harder than Dr. No, also
4/7/00 Lincoln Woods, RI
This past weekend, Lisa Pierce
did the first female ascent of The Aid Problem, V6, which is the standing
start version to Chemical, V9. John "Whitey" McLean first did The
Aid Problem, which involves a typical Whitey high-step, back
in the early 80s.
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